Oxalis eradication
Maldonmarie
18 years ago
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18 years agoAnnie_qld
18 years agoRelated Discussions
Arum italicum - how to eradicate
Comments (159)I thought I'd update the situation here on the Central West NSW frontline. Quite by chance, I adopted from last winter the strategy suggested by Katherine D immediately above. As I enter the second winter of the campaign I am finding a lot less plants coming up and because the soil in the flower beds has been turned over lifting the plants complete with corms is straightforward. One thing I have found is that the plant is extremely resilient. As I dug up arums last winter I put them into used plastic animal feed bags which I left out in the sun. Over the summer we had +40 deg C days and low humidity and in my innocence, I thought that would do the plants and corms in. Come the late autumn I started burning the contents of the bags in the fire pit and lo and behold there were corms sprouting happily away. And even after exposure to the flame, they had to be in the very hot part of the pit to ensure their destruction. One final note: our local Agricultural show here in Canowindra is held in spring. In fact it is more than just sheep and the big money local crop, lucerne, there's a horticultural section too. Taking in the prize-winning exhibits last year my eye fell upon one "highly commended" potted specimen, a ''beautiful'' arum. I wrote to the PA&H Show Society to complain that they were encouraging the cultivation of a noxious weed and a threat to pastures. They acknowledged my letter. It remains to be seen if they can the class for arums this year....See MoreOxalis Nightmare in Backyard
Comments (24)I live in Center Hill, Florida, and, Yes! Have Oxalis in the yard on the North side of the house. i thought I had it all dug up in January 2020....then, January 2021, it came back with a vengence covering a 40 ft x 12 ft area....took me awhile to dig it up...took 4 weeks, working 5 - 7 hours every other day....then, have the ones missed coming up....will not replug the area with grass until I no longer see new growth.....It is a MUST to dig deeply, so that the seed is removed with the stalk and leaves....I have seen the miniture "white carrot" root system, as well, with all the group of seeds at the top of the carrot....Weed be Gone or Round-Up won't touch it..just kills the grass.... This year I dug it up a shovel full at a time and graded every shovel full...put in 5 gallon bucket and would pour that into garbage...have new plants coming up in front flower bed and found few in the Floratam St Augistine grass....spread to neighbors yard about 12 inches and I went and dug it up...2 weeks later see new growth there...will go dig up again....BEWARE! If you don't get that seed at the bottom it comes back...that stem attached to the seed is fragile...so, fluff the soil around it after digging it up...get that seed! But, WEAR A MASK! Because I was on my hands and knees grading the clumps, the Oxalis leaves contain needle sharp crystals that can be inhaled into your throat and mouth....causing severe throat and mouth irritation...I know, because I have had it for over 3 weeks now and two trips to emergency room & doctors look at me like I'm crazy...leaves have needle sharp crystals that can be inhaled.....I checked all info I cound find on the internet for symptoms of oxalic exposure....Called Poison Control...they couldn't help ...no knowledge what-so-ever!!!! My primary care doctor told me to give it up....like I was crazy? I am older than dirt.....72 years old.....still digging in the dirt....but, I don't want ths poisonous weed in my yard.....found this site today....anrcatalog ucanr edu....poisonous plants ...ANRCATALOG.EDU Also, ...mayoclinic.org....treatment for calcium oxalate crystals...It showed Vitamin B-6 reduces oxalate in urine....have a high fluid intake to dilute it...use alkalizing agents like citrate inhibits formation of calcium oxalic crystals....plus fish oil....Mayo Clinic is in Jacksonville, Fl., and I don't have a driver to take me there...and doctors in Central Florida think I'm crazy.......So, don't take chances, this weed can effect your kidneys from what I have read.....and not one doctor did a blood test or urine test to get any results on me....and this oxalis can be deadly....so, use caution....Had a CT scan of my throat last week......waiting on the results to see if any damage has been done.....Be Safe......Your Friend Against Oalis.....Terri in Center Hill, Florida...04/24/2021 ...Good Luck!...See MoreSide note to getting rid of bermuda-How do you get rid of Oxalis?
Comments (9)The common yellow oxalis we have here has tiny "bulbules" (sp?), which lurk 12 -18 inches under the ground. You can easily pull up the plants, of course, but those tiny bulb things stay under the soil, and up it comes again. I once had a gardener who decided to eradicate it from a flower bed which is about 12 feet long and 6 feet wide. He actually dug up the top 2 feet of soil, and sifted it by hand to get all of the tiny bulbs out. That worked for the first year, but by 2-3 years after he did that, back the oxalis came. So, being lazy, what I do is just admire it in the Spring, except where it is trying to smother other plants. Then just pull it out around those plants. By late Spring here it has died down, and I pretend it is gone. Of course, it comes up again the next Spring. It is one of our first blooming plants to bloom (starts Jan/Feb), so I just regard it as such and let it be mostly. One of my cats likes to eat it (we used to eat it as children - we called it "sour grass"). Jackie...See MoreTetraclinis Articulata in a pot with Oxalis?
Comments (19)That resources in a pot are limited ensures that the sharing of those resources with a number of plants greater than one will be further limiting. There is absolutely no question that more than one plant in a pot limits the potential of all plants in the pot in terms of growth rate, vitality levels, the ability of the plants to protect themselves against insect herbivory, pathogens both biotic and abiotic, and yields where applicable, of individual plants. Assuming absence of allelopathic limitations, which has not been confirmed, plants will be less affected by competition (from additional plants) until the approximate point in time where the root mass can be lifted from the pot intact. From that point forward, limitations become increasingly severe in direct relation to the severity of root congestion and the absence of adequate resources, such that the growth rate of all plants (or some) can be zero or less in many cases. There is also little question that species of oxalis have a very high level of vigor, which is a genetic trait. A plant's level of vigor is a very good indicator of how effectively it will be able to compete with other plants for resources, and why a large % of plants are seldom found growing in situ under conditions and levels of resources that most favor the plant; this, because the more vigorous plants are better able to compete for resources. It would be unwise to assume that the oxalis is not competitive enough to make a difference in how well the cypress performs because res ipsa loquitur ('the thing speaks for itself'). When the total of share of resources is limited, the less the individual share can be when divided among an increasing number of individuals. I also think there is a lot of territory between what different individuals consider to be a thriving plant. To me, the very idea of a thriving plant implies that all cultural conditions are in its favor. This means if even a single cultural condition asks the plant to tolerate conditions at or near the limits it's genetically programmed to tolerate, a thriving plant is not a possibility. A shortage or toxicity of a single nutrient, a temperature to high/low, to much/ too little water or not enough air in the rhizosphere, an inappropriate pH level, would all preclude the plant's ability t o thrive. On that basis, I would suggest that most plants that have been in the same pot for more than a year are hardly thriving unless they were appropriately repotted or divided and all other cultural conditions are in the plant's sweet spot, and that type of care is much closer to the exception than the rule. I appreciate the opportunity to muse on your dime, Seasiderooftop. I hope you and the plant fare well. Keeping the oxalis pinched back to the soil line will limit its ability to do much growing and limit how much it will limit your cypress. It should be easy to tease the weed out of the roots next time you repot. As noted, that's how I often keep volunteer weeds from being as limiting as they have the potential to be. The greater the dynamic mass of the plant, the more resources it will command to keep that mass in a viable state. Trees and herbaceous plants prioritize their parts into something of a 'pecking order', but perhaps it's better to say that the strength of energy sinks (parts of the plant which demand energy) has a distinct order: Demand for energy is greatest from and first allocated to to respiratory function, i.e. to maintenance of already living tissues, followed in order by production of fine roots, then flower and seed/fruit production, primary growth (extension of both roots and shoots), then secondary growth (thickening), and finally, the synthesis of defensive chemicals. Since the plant's ability to defend itself requires a high state of vitality, it is often inadequate even in plants we think are thriving because it's the first hit the plant takes when it is stressed. Al...See MoreUser
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