When you are dealing with a slab, you have to know what pans you want and how the drain configuration is done - otherwise - they will simply block out the shower area and not pour anything - which is an option - then they can set the pan when it's selected and plumb accordingly. All they need to have is a rough idea on what end it's going to drain and put in a trap, etc. The linear drains I have see are really just linear "on the top" and they they slope and drain under the grate / cover into a center or offset round drain hole - so they are not all that different than a regular drain - other than the placement on the edge vs the middle.

Who did the design work and documentation here? Concrete is a structural material. It is never assumed to be decorative unless designed to be so, with stains, dyes, and other treatments. Which is thousands more in upcharges. You assumed and didn’t discuss. You are still on the hook for any upcharges should the microtoppings or staining take place.

Hi @Lynn Morford, I hate to jinx things, but now three months in, I LOVE the floors. I fact, I admire them many times a day (good distraction from current CV craziness). There are about a dozen spots where there were dings or tiny cracks, which freaked me out at first, but I'm pretty sure it was just from the movers. I do take care of them like a newborn child, though--sweep, vacuum, wipe, repeat. Overall, I'm very happy with them! @everdebz, we ended up gluing down. Definitely harder on my body that floating but I've learned to wear slippers or socks and I have yoga mats in most rooms to give my feet a little vacation as I walk through the house, lol. In the end, I trusted @joseph_corlett's comment about letting the contractor make the call on what is best for the situation. Granted, I still pine for the perfect floating feel of my old Junckers flooring, but apparently theirs were unique and most other flooring can't float the same way, so... Anyway, the sad fact is, you can't remove glue-downs without destroying the boards. So fingers crossed you never have to! (I put fake wood in my laundry room and we've already had three floods, so thank god for that decision.)

Lisa--Does no one in Florida open their windows and just let the fresh air in during the cooler times? Frankly, that is one of the reasons I was thinking LVT might be a good solution. Unless it's really hot and humid, we are pretty much let the fresh air in type of people. But, I also did some more thinking about the LVT that I was planning to install--Flooret--which features extremely large planks with enhanced bevels. I've now reinforced my earlier thought that I don't like the enhanced bevel (with each separate plank emphasized) look that seems to currently be popular in both engineered hardwood and LVT. I much prefer the look that one gets with real tongue and groove, on-site finished floors. A more regular, smoother surface constancy in look that is the way the old-fashioned 100-year-old oak and maple floors in our primary home present. Now that Christmas is over I may go back to the flooring stores to take a look at my options. For the main floor, IF I could find some timeless-looking porcelain tile that I liked a whole lot and that isn't a trendy design (sorry, but I think wood look porcelain is super trendy) and whose installation cost isn't a killer I could maybe maybe consider that. But, it's my understanding that hard tile is quite an expensive install. I like Marmoleum, but it doesn't have the look I want. And, last time around when we did some remodeling I investigated it and found it to be very pricey. And, I think I am going to give my realtor a call to get some feedback about what she hears from buyers in the area. Thanks all.