Hi. Thanks for thinking that I could help. It *really* is hard to say without seeing the injury. How much is torn away? Is it, for example, from the little incisor teeth in the very front and goes back to the molars? Is it a rip along the jaw line and the lip is just hanging loose? Is the jaw bone exposed? If the bone is exposed it has to be covered and protected with the skin! If a large section of the lip is hanging loose (one end dangling in the wind and the rest is attached) then if it cannot be reattached then it should at least be removed. Hanging tissue is susceptible to more trauma, cause pain and potentially infections. If it is a small tear then it may not be worth the anesthetic risk for a stitch or two. If the tissue is pulled away from the jaw and forms a little pocket with the jaw, food, water and doggy drool could pool in there and cause lots of problems. If that is the case it would be best to reconnect and probably a drain would need to be placed for a few days so an abscess would not form. If this is an older wound and the edges have healed ... if the lip is to be reattached then the wound edges can easily be freshened and the reattachment made. Again, I have not seen this pup and the injury but I would think at least a short course of antibiotics would decrease infection setting in. Depending on the extent of the injury, sometimes a surgical adhesive rather than stitches can be used to close the wound. Most anything can be repaired with reconstructive surgery. Can you post a picture or maybe ask your friend to have someone else look at the pup if she has any doubts about what vet#1 advised. So many questions back at you. Sorry about that but I'd like to give the best "cyber vet" advice I can for the pup. C3D

I'm sorry I don't have an answer for you but since this doesn't seem to be a very active forum, why not try posting your message in the Cottage Garden or Perennial forums? The Cottage garden is a very active forum.

AS is the only quick way to get blue hydrangeas. Garden sulfur is the next best option, but it will take months to acidify the soil. I find very little luck with coffee grounds and other home remedies. AS is not that bad, just a few watchouts and that;s it...water the plant before the AS application...if the soil is dry, never ever drench it directly with AS solution...less is more for AS...never use more than one TABLEspoon per gallon of water...and one gallon of AS solution is enough for a hydrangea in a 3-5 gallon pot..or a 2-3 yr old Hydrangea..have the soil moist, make up the As solution - 1 tablespoon per gallon - drench the plant with the solution...never allow the solution to touch any leaves (or it will burn them)..wait for 24 hours, then drench the plant again with water...repeat this application once more two weeks later...and two applications are enough to make pink ES blooms blue...with AS, really, less is more...if somehow your soil is very clayish, loamy or alkaline...apply a weak AS solution weekly (after you notice the blooms are pink, and not blue even after the two AS applications earlier)...the weak AS solution is 1 TEAspoon of AS per gallon of water, drench the same way...this weak AS solution is 1/3rd the strength of the original one and will fine tune the soil acidity for you while keeping you from killing your plants...as for cuts, I already cut my May/June ES blooms, cut the stem with only one or two set of leaves on it..above where you see some healthy buds...my cut ESs are already setting up new flower buds and ready for the second bloom sometime in Aug..I notice the cut plants tend to do better with more bud settings than the uncut ones...ES is an ok rebloomer, blushing Bride is a lot stronger performer, of course the color of the blooms for BB is very different from ES... good luck.

Not gonna work :-) Caladium bulbs (tubers really) will get quite large during the growing season and blast right through a plastic cup. If you want to try this method, plant them up in at least a gallon sized nursery pot (one tuber per pot), grow them on until after last chance of frost, then sink the pots in the ground. But I think you will find you'll get better results just planting them directly into the ground and then digging, cleaning and storing for winter.