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experience and thinking caps needed
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Posted by kevarose Kangaroo Valley (My Page) on Tue, Feb 22, 05 at 20:14
| I am about to create 2 more beds to get rid of some of the lawn here and add more beauty (and roses as well as native and exotic foliage). I have "slaved" over the first draft and would now like to turn it over to some experts for other suggestions. I would like more teas as I think I am going to like these when they get bigger as my current teas are still less than a metre but it is really lack of knowledge on my part. Any roasarian is welcome for a country lunch (and they are good) if they ever wish a day in the country within 2 hours of Sydney CBD. I am so grateful for any and all suggestions.
I have drawn the middle 2 acres of my garden and put it on my website at www.kookaburrahill.com.au/garden.html so you can see where these beds are in relation to the whole. On that plan you might notice I have moved (or will when it is cold enough) the climbers up the gums as Lozza encouraged (except Lamarque who is so happy) and have the crepuscle hedge as Larry suggested near the pool to be planted in winter.
Bed 1 (~40 x 2 m) is to be purple/mauve/pink/cerise/silver/white and will get hours of arvo sun as I am planting a few small deciduous trees north of the roses. It will be WET but drained well as it will be watered once a week by the Biocyle (I move it around) and have a roof rain flood down it periodically - but all the roses seem to love this combination. It faces a new tea bed with pink tea roses (Tillier/ Souv d'un Ami, Safrano) and Fantin Latour and Mrs H Stevens.
I was planning to buy the following roses for Bed 1 (the # numbers refer to the number on the drawing and numbers in parentheses to the number I was planning to buy/move :
BUY: #14. Ferdinand Pichard
(or Yolande d'Aragon), #19. Veilchenblau on seat with overhead, #84. Sally Holmes (buy 3) ?? plus add Mrs Cant
MOVE: # 13. Mme Isaac Pereire (x2), #15. Gertrude Jekyll, #16. Reine des violettes (x3), #17. Blue Moon - BUY 2 MORE, #18. Blueberry Hill, #20. Baron Giraud de L'ain, #3. Lamarque, #22. Heritage, #23. was going to be Sombreuil but it died on me in last heatwave in a hot place of the garden so ???
________________
Bed 2 (~ 15 x 8 m) is a triangular bed in plum/yellow/pink/cream with some big autumn foliage trees to the west and a small orchard to the south - it will get enough sun also. It has a hill draining down to it but also on a slope so drains well.
BUY: # 25. Mutabilis (x3) # 28. Lady Hillingdon shrub (x2)
MOVE EXISTING: # 26. Othello (x2) # 27. Charles de Mills (x2) # 29. Diamond Jubilee # 30. Mikado
To the west of it is # 31 a Renae hedge as advised by Lozza which is growing very well with chicken poo
What do you think? Everything does not have to flower all the time as I like the changes and green is nice too without flowers but perfume and beauty are what I am looking for and maybe a flowering period that is longish - like the thought of something to take your breath away when it is in bloom for at least some of the roses.
Kevarose |
Follow-Up Postings:
RE: experience and thinking caps needed
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- Posted by plaur Z9 NSW AUST (My Page) on
Wed, Feb 23, 05 at 2:23
Kevarose,
I haven't had time to absorb the details of your lovely plans,but did notice The Camphor Laurel Tree!!!!!
At my previous house I inherited a rose garden on one block,and a stand of camphor laurels on a second block,they were about 15m away from the rose garden.The bushes looked pretty ratty and didn't show any improvement with extra care and continued to deteriorate,new rose bushes failed to thrive.In the meantime,I noticed the aromatic smell of camphor,every time I put a spade in the ground on either block!
Eventually,council agreed to our removing of the trees, at a time when every rose in the garden was practically moribund.It was such a pleasure to see new healthy growth on the survivors within 6 months of the removal of the camphor laurel trees.I also have to tell you to avoid using camphor laurel leaves in your rose mulch.
Sorry to be so long in the telling of this tale but it is important to your plans.
Regards Pam. |
RE: experience and thinking caps needed
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| Omigod, I am soooo impressed. What an action plan! What a vision! No thinking cap fits me too well, but I'd just like to add my concerns re the camphor laurel expressed by plaur. I lost a whole bed this year within the space of four measley months to the otherwise lovely and useful (in certain situations) CL, which is like an inexorable lava flow with leaves. I am also wondering about Gertrude as a front of house girl. She can be problematic, in terms of bloom and leggy growth. But look, who am I to say boo to a goose? Moi, who has made a Hawaiian cocktail of many a garden? I just bow down before you. Pamela. |
RE: experience and thinking caps needed
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| Bow down to a goose - I am the beginner here! Will take note re Gertrude and move her back - thanks Betsy. I can't do anything about the CL as the owner of next door "likes it". The roses will be about 10 metres away but I note Pam you think this is not enough. Maybe they will survive for a while at least as the CL is still small. |
RE: experience and thinking caps needed
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| Perhaps you could use a root wall between the CL and the rose bed. Hazel. |
RE: experience and thinking caps needed here
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| Forgot to add; I too am impressed. Wish I was that organised. From your Bed 1, I have Mme Isaac Pereire, Gertrude Jekyll, Blue Moon, Heritage and Lamarque. MIP and Lamarque will need support. Is your intention to have them grow into the trees behind. In our climate, Blue Moon and Gertrude are quite lanky. My Heritage is less than 12 months old but in time I think it will also get quite tall. You have chosen some beautiful perfumes in the lot. Enjoy. Hazel. |
RE: experience and thinking caps needed
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- Posted by plaur Z9 NSW AUST (My Page) on
Wed, Feb 23, 05 at 21:49
Offer the neighbours a beautiful substitute!
My visualising skills are practically zero,but I would never elect to have a liquid amber or a camphor near a rose bed.You may also be knee deep in leaves,some of which you should avoid using as a mulch.
My other concern is that in 5 years time,your roses may only receive early morning sun,but no doubt you have taken tree distance into account.
Pam. |
RE: experience and thinking caps needed
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| Dear Hazel and Pam Thank you for these ideas - I will put in a tripod or something for MIP but was not going to do that for Blue Moon - can't I let these flop? I can put them more in the middle to back. Lamarque was to climb the bull bay magnoilia that is currently about a metre high but growing strongly. My neighbour is an absentee owner and comes occasionally and says how wonderful the trees are - not really negotiable at this stage. A root barrier is a good idea and I have lots of left-over dam liner geomembrane and will dig down as far as I can and insert it - great idea! Thanks Hazel |
RE: for your info kr
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- Posted by tobin1 vic australia (My Page) on
Thu, Feb 24, 05 at 6:23
PP46 February 2004 The State of Queensland (Department of Natural Resources and Mines) 2004 QNRM01263
Produced by: Land Protection Author: Land Protection
p e s t s e r i e s
Camphor laurel
Cinnamomum camphora (Lauraceae)
DECLARED
Camphor laurel is an attractive shade tree, but can be
very destructive. This large, introduced tree
aggressively replaces native vegetation. Camphor
laurel invades pastures and disturbed riparian
systems and is a troublesome weed on dairy farms
throughout south-east Queensland and northern New
South Wales.
Camphor laurel is a declared Class 3 weed, its
control is recommended.
Class 3 plants cannot be sold in Queensland.
2 Description
Camphor laurel is a large evergreen tree, growing up
to 20 m tall. The leaves have a glossy, waxy
appearance and smell of camphor when crushed. In
spring, it produces lush, bright green foliage and
masses of small white flowers. The spherical fruits are
10 mm across, green at first changing to black when
ripe.
The problem
Camphor laurel was introduced into Australia from
Asia in 1822. It has been promoted and planted as a
garden ornamental throughout Queensland.
Although the visual beauty of camphor laurel trees
cannot be denied, the long-term consequences of its
spread may result in the loss of native wildlife and
agricultural productivity over large areas of southeastern
Queensland.
Camphor laurel is considered a pest for agricultural,
environmental and urban reasons:
Agricultural
Camphor laurel can invade and smother pastures. Its
control is a constant expense for many graziers.
Camphor laurel tends to germinate most frequently
under fences and powerlines (wherever birds rest and
deposit the seed). As a result, camphor laurel can
push over fences and disrupt power facilities.
Environmental
Camphor laurel is capable of replacing native trees.
Along the waterways of South-East Queensland,
camphor laurels are replacing the native blue gums,
one of the favourite food trees of the koala. This
means our koala populations may be reduced.
Urban
Old camphor laurel trees develop a massive root
system which may block drains and crack concrete
structures. The average suburban backyard is far too
small to accommodate a mature camphor laurel
without problems. Removal of a mature camphor
laurel tree from a backyard can cost hundreds of
dollars.
Distribution
Camphor laurel is native to Taiwan, Japan and some
parts of China. Since it was introduced in 1822 it has
spread right along eastern Australia from the Atherton
Tablelands south to Victoria. It is particularly common
along watercourses and on soil types which once
supported rainforest.
In south-east Queensland, camphor laurel has the
potential to develop dense infestations similar to older
infestations which exist in Northern New South Wales.
A large camphor laurel tree may produce over
100 000 seeds every year. The seeds are readily
spread by a few species of birds.
Control
The spread of weeds threatens the sustainability of
agriculture and other land uses. Weeds also
devastate native plants and animals.
The best form of weed control is prevention.
Always treat weed infestations when small, do not
allow weeds to establish. Weed control is not
cheap, but it is cheaper now than next year, or the
year after. Proper planning ensures you get value
for each dollar spent.
Look at your weed problem carefully. Can you
realistically eradicate it? Or should you contain the
weed to stop new infestations developing while you
reduce existing ones? What are you required to do
by legislation? How does weed control fit into your
property plan? What can you do to restore areas
and prevent re-establishment?
The best approach is usually to combine different
methods. Control may include chemical,
mechanical, fire and biological methods combined
with land management changes. The control
methods you choose should suit the specific weed
and your particular situation.
Mechanical
Removal of newly established or isolated seedlings
by hand pulling or grubbing is effective.
Bulldozing is only suitable for young trees which
can be removed the crowns and all. Failure to
remove roots of mature trees will result in regrowth.
Fire kills plant tops but produces regrowth from the
base.
Herbicide
Selection of a suitable method depends on the size
of the target tree and its situation. Treated standing
trees may be a serious hazard to human safety or
other structures when they fall. Removal of the bulk
of the tree before treating the stump is preferred in
such situations.
Table 1 details the herbicides registered for
camphor laurel control. Before using any herbicide
always read the label carefully. All herbicides must
be applied strictly in accordance with the label.
For young trees up to 3 m tall foliar sprays can be
used. Trees up to 6 m tall and with a basal stem
diameter up to 30 cm and no multi-stems can be
treated by basal bark or cut stump methods; basal
bark is preferred. For trees taller than 6 m stem
injection using a modified axe is the most practical
method; leave no more than 2 cm between cuts.
When using the basal bark method spray from
ground level up to a height of 30 cm or higher than
where multi-stems branch.
Fact sheets are available from NR&M Service Centres and
the NR&M Information Centre phone (07 3237 1435).
Check our website to ensure you
have the latest version of this fact sheet.
You can also find information on environmental weeds at
www.nrm.qld.gov.au/pests/environmental_weeds/weed_info_series.html
The control methods referred to in this Pest Fact should be used in accordance with the restrictions
(federal and state legislation and local government laws) directly or indirectly related to each control
method. These restrictions may prevent the utilisation of one or more of the methods referred to,
depending on individual circumstances. While every care is taken to ensure the accuracy of this
information, the Department of Natural Resources and Mines does not invite reliance upon it, nor
accept responsibility for any loss or damage caused by actions based on it.
Axe cuts for stem injection of herbicides should be
made at regular intervals all around the stem (or
stems). Care should be taken to ensure the axe leaves
a "pocket" in the stem, into which the chemical is
immediately injected. Cuts should penetrate the
sapwood (just under the bark), but not the hard central
wood. Cuts made too shallow into the bark or too deep
into the stem will result in regrowth. The practice of
drilling holes in the stem prior to herbicide application
is not recommended.
Further information
Further information is available from the vegetation
management/weed control/environmental staff at your
local government.
TABLE 1 − HERBICIDES REGISTERED FOR THE CONTROL OF CAMPHOR LAUREL
Situation
Herbicide
Rate
Comments
pastures; non crop;
forestry; rights-of-way;
aquatic areas
Triclopyr-butotyl +
picloram
e.g. Grazon DS
350-500 mL/100 L water High volume spray for trees up to
3 m tall. Higher rate for > 2 m tall
2.5 L/100 L water Air blast/mister.
Foliar srpay
1:20 water Gas gun or sprinkler sprayer
Foliar spray
pastures; non crop;
forestry; rights-of-way;
aquatic areas
Triclopyr-butotyl
e.g. Garlon 600
170 mL/100 L water High volume foliar spray up to 3 m tall
1 L in 60 L diesel Basal bark for trees up to 6 m tall and 30 cm
stem diameter or cut stump
pastures; non crop;
forestry; rights-of-way;
aquatic areas
Glyphosate-IPA 2 mL of 1:1 mix with water Stem injection for trees up to 25 cm
diameter
2 mL undiluted Stem injection for trees
25-60 cm diameter
3 cm |
RE: experience and thinking caps needed
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- Posted by plaur Z9 NSW AUST (My Page) on
Thu, Feb 24, 05 at 9:45
Thank you so much,tobin,I was beginning to feel very much like a wowser here.
Regards Pam. |
RE: experience and thinking caps needed
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| Tobin - thank you! thank you! I shall give this to my neighbour when he reappears and offer to replace with anything else of his choice, preferbably native. |
RE: experience and thinking caps needed
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| Kevarose, It might be an idea to hold back on Lamarque for a few years or it will swamp your 1m magnolia. Here Lamarque is a rapid grower. I don't want to hog your post but am interested in your geomembrane dam liner. We installed this in a leaking dam a few years ago after being told that they make dams in the desert with this stuff. Water disappears just as quickly as it did before. Have you had better results? Cheers, Hazel. |
RE: experience and thinking caps needed
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Kevarose, I agree with the excellent advice, my input would be that maybe a less varied backdrop would set off the roses more- or have an island bed as a focal centrepiece.
Hazel, my interest got pricked up check this out- www.arumpobentonite.com.au/dam.php we will be using this product in our rather large pond- too big for liners. |
RE: experience and thinking caps needed
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| Hazel I am sorry that I did not answer your question. My liner is from Merit Linings in WA. It is 1 mm thick and has been welded into the shape of the dam. It holds the water perfectly. I had to push in a large dead tree as I had a possum drown and I wanted to have a walkway for future one. Roos have now started hanging around at dusk. I have heard of problems with bentonite - I was trying to think of the name of this product - works sometimes and not on other times - I did not want to experiment so I surveyed all the geomembrane (ie 1-2 mm thick vinyl type material that is as strong as can be) suppliers and installers and ended up getting a good price from Merit who happened to be doing another job in my area. My job was relatively small and they were able to cut it and weld it into the shape of the dam and it was perfect from day one. I do recommend this company. Their phone no is 08 9383 7510 Kevarose |
RE: experience and thinking caps needed
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- Posted by Lynne1 Victoria Oz (My Page) on
Thu, Mar 17, 05 at 1:56
| Definately spray straight farmers roundup or grazon on your camphour laurel, then you can say "oh it is sickly, I will have to cut it down, what a shame! any Weed hater in aussie bush.. |
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