Hi Susan: Phyllis Bide is a cross of Perle d'Or and Gloire de Dijon. Gloire de Dijon is a Noisette. Noisette class includes Albas like Felicite Parmentier, and roses begin with "Belle". The Noisette, including Albas prefer acidic soil. Phyllis Bide grows well for Tammy in Tennessee with acidic red clay ... It's best if you test the pH of your clay soil first using the procedure below that I wrote for the English Roses Forum. If your soil is alkaline, even if you mix sulfur in, it won't take effect until 1 year later. I don't recommend sulfur since it kills earthworm. Even with acidic pine fines in, its pH lowering takes a long time. I would buy a bag of ALREADY acidic garden soil made for acid-plants and put that into the ground for Phyllis Bide. If you want Phyllis Bide to green up fast, use blood meal (with chelated iron). Caution: too much nitrogen will stop Phyillis Bide from blooming, so it's not worth it. Why did Phyllis Bide turn chlorotic in your pot? Let's consider: 1) Moisture Control potting soil: dense & wet stuff, less oxygen than the fluffy composted pine potting soil 2) Mills Magic Mix: Main ingredient is alfalfa meal. Alfalfa meal is document by BOTH University Extensions to cause chlorosis in marigolds and vegetable seedlings. It's a fine particle so it gunks up on top, blocking airflow from above. When plants are suffocated, they turn yellow. Alfalfa meal did that to ALL my pots. Worst, the pH of alfalfa meal is acidic at 6, perfect for fungal germination. I get black spot with roses in pots topped with alfalfa meal. Alfalfa meal NPK is 2-1-2, very little nutrients compared to sulfate of potash NPK of 0-0-50 (very high potassium). University of Mass. Extension documented most blooms, and biggest blooms with high potassium fertilizer, compared to smallest blooms, and less bloom with alfalfa pellets. I still feel bad about the Boston Marathon bombing, with a 5-year old girl lost her legs.... life is full of pain, pray & love is the best we can do. As to where to test your soil pH? Get 3 samples: one from the pot (to see what's applied changed the pH). One from AWAY from roses. One from deep at the bottom of the hole. Why? the top surface can be acidic thanks to alfalfa meal, but the bottom of the hole, where the roots are, can still be alkaline. Use baking soda as the standard for alkalinity. If you can collect rain water, that's great. pH of rain water is 5.7 or lower. I would buy distilled water, pH of 7, then use 2 cups to boil red cabbage .... turned purple. I also boiled red cabbage in my own well water, pH 8 .... turned blue. Also boiled red cabbage in rain water ... that's pinkish violet. Use hot cabbage juice boiled in distilled water to test 3 samples of soil from your garden (plus a sample of baking soda, another of a slightly acidic material). Compare those with the below: 1) red cabbage boiled in distilled water alone (pH 7) 2) cabbage boiled in your tap water (neutral to alkaline) 3) cabbage boiled in rain water (acidic) Some municipal water-treatment put hydrated lime into their water so pipes won't corrode. Here is a link that might be useful: Cheapest way to test soil pH using red cabbage This post was edited by Strawberryhill on Tue, Apr 16, 13 at 11:15

I only use foliage feeding for my micro nutrients. This paragraph gives a good detailed explanation of the only reason why I foliage feed. Research over many decades has explored the mineral uptake and transport of many species of fruit trees, conifers including pine and spruce species, and some hardwoods of ornamental or commercial value. Results have been mixed in many cases, with some species responding well to treatment and others remaining unaffected. Generally, the results suggest that foliar application of particular nutrients can be useful in crop production situations where soil conditions limit nutrient availability. For instance, alkaline soils do not readily release many metallic nutrients, especially iron and manganese. Zinc, copper, magnesium, molybdenum, boron, and calcium are other micronutrients required in small quantities that have been applied to foliage in an effort to relieve deficiencies and combat fruit disorders. Fruit, as adjacent tissue, can benefit from foliar spray. But this is a localized application that does not affect the trunk or roots � and therefore is not a solution to soil imbalances. In fact, researchers consistently state that foliar treatments are a specialized, temporary solution to leaf and fruit deficiencies in tree fruit production but will not solve larger soil management issues.

Shawn I buy just about any brand of kelp extract. Almost all companies that make organic plant food have one either listed as kelp or seaweed. I don't think there's much of a difference between them. Ryan I really like NEHydro and have been buying from them for a few years. They ship quick and their prices are reasonable. I get coupons emailed to me every few months for either a % or a specific amount off.

I use the fish emulation the one i use doesn't have a NPK so i can use it evey watering i allso use it after I repot any of my plants it supposed to relieve stress due to repoting imo it helps. As for what mr ko uses i don't know. I must tell u use half strength if u keep using any foliar sprays on seedlings they dont really need fertilizer:×)