Calliope and Wisconsitom, those of us in CA can't grow grass, at least not without an enormous amount of effort (and water). Many of us don't have a blade of grass no matter the size of our gardens, and many municipalities offer cash bounties for lawn removal, due to the water usage. Thus, we have to come up with some substance to cover the bare earth to prevent erosion, retain moisture, reduce weeds, etc. Mulch is often the answer, especially when the plants are young. In climates where large expanses of grass are possible, the aesthetic has generally evolved to favor the landscapes that flora describes. That aesthetic traveled with the settlers from England to the US and is the dominant aesthetic in much of the Eastern US. It's lovely, just not possible here in CA with our dry summers and Mediterranean climate. Markces, your decision about whether to mulch your tree or not is largely aesthetic as long as you don't even consider the harmful practice of piling the mulch up the tree trunk. Do whatever you think looks best. One could make the argument that the mulch surrounding the tree is more beneficial to the tree than grass, for the reasons laid out above by Wisconsitom, but grass will not hurt the tree. As many have noted, the choices that one makes in one's own garden are largely - if not completely! - matters of personal taste. That's part of what makes it rewarding!

Hi Erasmus: I learn from what you wrote above, thank you. Forget-me-nots like clay soil and cool wet spring. Kim is right that it can be invasive, it spreads to a HUGE patch in my Mom's 5-acres land. She also has a peppermint and spearmint patch the size of a master bedroom. Mint is super-invasive. Below are the invasive plant which I tortured myself with before I discovered fragrant roses: 1) Mint - 5 hours to kill. I gave to my neighbor: they spent the entire Saturday killing those idiots. 2) Zebra Grass, or Ribbon-grass. It took 3 people to dig up the super-deep-root clump, and 1/2 hour per clump. 3) English Ivy ground-cover. This should be banned from the planet earth. They are known to destroy mansions, choke large trees to death.... if you plant too close to the window, they can crawl inside and choke you to death while you are sleeping (just kidding). I spent 40+ hours and 1 year killing them, plus spraying Round-up into my house foundation to get rid of the roots. I was cursed eternally when I bought English Ivy for $10 from HomeDepo. 4) Pink Yarrow - I was shocked when I saw HomeDepo selling this. My Mom gave me 1 branch, it spread even to my lawn. I spent 1 year and 50+ hours killing them. They spread both by roots and by seeds. 5) Gout weed - this makes a stinky ground cover. 10+ hours killing them. Purple and white alyssum are the best ground cover, since they are annuals, and don't spread to one's lawn. 6) Italian Parsley - 1 hour killing them. Now I sink a plastic bucket 6" into the soil, both ends cut off, to keep mint and parsley inside. 7) Dr. Huey's roots - I spent 1/2 hour digging them up when I killed Knock-outs, that's why I like own-root roses. We have cool and rainy weather for the past 2 days, now Lynnie is red like Knock-out, very much like Jeri's picture in HMF. Lynnie is far prettier than Knock-out both bush-shape and flower-appeal. Annie prefers acidic soil and water for best growth. She was stunt from my alkaline soil and water, and NOT from the frost. Ever since I gave her acid-fertilizer high in nitrogen she grows like crazy: She was super-tiny in June, after 1 month with acidifying the water with used lemon rinds, she doubled in size. This pic. is taken this morning:

The only thing good about planting in spring is that outlets have their best selection. Otherwise is is a lousy time to plant hardy plants (tender plants would of course die if planted at the otherwise preferred time in fall). In spring soils are cold and soggy, top growth is underway or soon will be and summer drought is right around the corner. Sunset Western Garden Book shows flowering times of numerous kinds of plants in the plant selection guide near the front. Otherwise I find the lists near the back of The Hillier Manual of Trees & Shrubs to be pretty good. Here's a sample (from the part called 'Flowering Trees and Shrubs for Every Month'): July Trees Aesculus indica Castanea sativa Catalpa Cladrastis sinensis Eucryphia Koelreuteria paniculata Liriodendron tulipifera Magnolia delavayi Magnolia grandiflora Stewartia Shrubs Aster albescens Buddleja davidii* Calluna vulgaris Cistus Colutea Daboecia cantabrica Desfontainea spinosa Deutzia setchuenensis Erica ciliaris Erica cinerea Erica tetralix Erica vagans Escallonia Fuchsia Grevillea juniperina 'Sulphurea' Halimodendron halodendron Hebe Hoheria Holodiscus discolor Hydrangea Hypericum Indigofera Lavandula Magnolia virginiana Olearia Penstemon Philadelphus Phygelius Potentilla Rhododendron Romneya Yucca Zenobia Climbers Clematis Eccremocarpus scaber Fallopia baldschuanica Jasminum Lonicera Mutisia oligodon Passiflora Schizophragma Solanum Trachelospermum *Now considered a weed in this region

Actually the soil pH can be changed quickly and easily if it is sandy. For example, if you're growing rhododendrons and azaleas, you can lower the pH easily by a couple applications of Miracid and watering it in well. Heavy soils are more difficult to work with. Rhododendrons, hollies, mountain laurel, dogwoods,ferns (most), and wildflowers are excellent companion plants for your hosta garden. All I'm saying is don't mix lime into your compost pile if you plan to use it around these plants. As far as removing the mulch that you have on during the winter, my suggestion is to wait at least until you are fairly sure the last freeze, and any hard frosts, are done. You'll have to make that call, as each zone and particular situation is different. Don