I guess that you've learned after all this time that the best place to post a question is in the 'Conversations' part of this forum and not the 'Gallery', which is rarely visited. Anyway, Norfolk Island Pines will not grow in your area. These plants are suited to purely tropical locations, where temperatures are not expected to dip below 40 (fahrenheit) or so. I suspect that what you've seen is a plant with similar structure.

Here's my 2 cents: Contrary to other posters, I have a Norfolk Pine that is growing outside, in the shade, in the Arizona heat. That includes a distinct lack of any real humidity most of the time. Part of the year, yes, there is some humidity, but most of the year it's very low here. Exacerbate that with extremely high temps and one would consider this a climate that this particular tree could not survive in. I can only surmise the following for it's continued existence going on 4 years now: I planted it in the shade. I also planted it right next to the drain pipe for my central AC unit. Not intentionally, just that was the only place to put that tree left that I had out front of my house that was in the shade. We are in the "humid" time of the year here and the ground is saturated with water to the point of a small amount of standing water - which the tree is sitting in directly, water coming from that AC drain and I also have a drip irrigation system that is also watering it, lol. One would also think root rot, but again, the tree is healthy, with only a few brown spots where the sun has been able to hit it during the daytime.

Don't plant it within 100 feet of anything you care about. It's not invasive, but they're extremely brittle. One across the street came down in a mild March thunderstorm - not a hurricane - a couple years ago, crushing my boyfriend's car. The storm snapped it off at 10 feet above the ground. The ten-foot stump finally came down in a thunderstorm a few months ago, taking out a neighbor's fence. (these were planted in the right-of-way and the whole neighborhood had to beg the city to take its twin out.) They also tend to get kind of scraggly looking as they get taller. They don't keep that pretty conical shape down here. And because they get so tall, taking one out can require a tree guy with a cherry picker to top it several times in order to get rid of it without endangering nearby houses (had to do that in another house years ago, it's expensive.) I'd advise against anyone down here planting them. I know Geico would.

"A plant that isn't growing is dying." ~ Alex Shigo PhD ........... so it's wise to be concerned when your plant isn't growing - unless it's taking the winter off. NIPs should do almost all of their extending from May - Oct. Also, growth is often arrested and plants exhibit general decline because of a deficiency of one or more nutrients; so to withhold fertilizer from these plants is essentially a death sentence and illustrates that in a fairly high % of cases, getting the nutritional program straightened out or fertilizing is the ONLY solution, which comes full circle to the fact that the idea we should never fertilize a sick plant is painting with a brush a little too broad. There is a triangular relationship that involves soil choice, watering habits, and the level of dissolved solids in the soil solution. Together, these factors exert primary influence on root health, and roots are the heart of the plant. It's not possible to have a healthy plant w/o it having healthy roots. It's highly probable your plant is rebelling against too much water in the soil after repotting into the MG product. NIPs prefer sharp drainage and don't tolerate wet feet well, so your focus should be on ensuring the rootzone is appropriately conducive to a healthy root system. Al