I realize there is SOME transplant shock happening ===>>>> that could be the understatement of the century ... lol .. water deeply.. and let them NEAR dry in between.. and live with the resulting shock .. future life is in the growth points.. and even if the shrub loses every leaf [not advised] .. if those points remain green and viable.. the shrub can make it ... but it aint gunna be pretty .. lol ... i dont understand what kind of TIMELINES you have.. that make planting in the wrong season imperative .... i dont understand.. why you couldnt hold your stock until about 9/1 .. it can be done as you are doing it.. its just that you and the plant are stressin' .... but i also understand ... ya gotta do.. what you gotta do .... if this is being done professionally.. then i presume you have warranties.. and you should follow the landscapers directions ... if you are doing it yourself.. i suggest that you move that timeline FOR PLANTING back about 6 weeks in z5 ... arent there other things that can be done within the plan ... that can be moved up to do now... that do NOT involve planting??? and then move back the planting of large stock .. from the worst 2 months of the year ... good luck ken ps: gardening is more of an ART.. rather than a science.. and forcing yourself into a 'process engineers' time table.. is the crux of your problem .. those hippie gardeners.. are more of.. 'oh whatever.. it will get done.. when it gets done' .. lol .. rather than step 27 part b, subsection 5 dictates planting of shrub #246 at 3:57 pm on 7/17/11 ... whats more important.. the plan.. or the plant??? pps: the difference is between .. what CAN be done.. and what SHOULD be done.. and what should be done.. is to transplant in the PROPER SEASON ... and then it becomes much more stress free .. for both you .. and the plants... ppps: new post if you want ideas how to hold over stock for a month or two ...

The carnivorous plant forum should be able to give you better info than here.

If you can transplant into a little bit bigger pot without disturbing the existing root ball it shouldn't add to the stress on the plant. You don't want to go from a very small pot to a big pot all at once. You need to do it in stages, one pot size up at a time. I converted your Celsius and you're talking about a range of 51 to 66 Fahrenheit. That is not too cold at all for roses. Roses can take temps down to about -2C before suffering any damage. At 11 to 19C they should still be growing, slowly but growing. Put it outside, in dappled shade, and give it a chance to recover. Once it leafs out again gradually move it out into full sunlight. Roses need a lot of sunlight to bloom. Roses also like a lot of water. As long as the pot has good drainage holes so any excess water can drain out of the pot freely don't worry about the drizzle. Do not put any kind of tray under the pot that will hold water in the roots. Roses hate to sit in water and have soggy, wet roots. Don't worry about the fertilizer that's already in the soil. Just do not add any kind of new fertilizer to the rose until it leafs back out and is growing again. Keeping it outside where it will get rained on should help flush that existing fertilizer through the soil quicker anyway.

WOW - your wax myrtles look great!! I’ve sprayed my 10 with a 3 in 1 made by Fertilome which was recommended by the garden center and now I’ll keep an eye on them and see what happens. I bought plants in 3 gallon containers that were about 30 inches tall at the time of planting and they have grown about a foot so far this year. i did do a little pruning earlier in the year to get them to flush out more. We have a seldom used neighborhood park adjacent to our lot and I wanted some kind of natural barrier between it and our backyard just in case it gets more use in the future. I had had some experience with wax myrtles as a privacy hedge at a home in South Carolina so thought they would be the ticket here. The difference there was that they were already established and I never had to be concerned with watering or pests. It‘s been so dry here in Jacksonville that I have had to hand water them a couple of times every week. The irrigation system we inherited is set up for grass, not newly planted shrubbery but that has given me the oppoortunity to closely inspect the plants with each watering, not only the wax myrtles but also the azaleas and camillias that I have planted since we bought this place. Thanks for getting back to me. I’s good to hear that your plants are doing so well and are providing the needed privacy. Take care.