My first reaction is, what a silly rule from your landscaper. My second reaction, and most important, is that I see that you said, "I think it will probably look lovely". That is what really matters. Also, take into consideration this, if the overall sunlight and water conditions (and soil) will be approximately the same, and your current bottlebrush are doing well, you're putting in a plant that has a very high chance of success. That's always good in my book. My only word of caution, lack of variety puts you in a small risk of vulnerability. For example, if you relied heavily on Queen Palms in your landscape, and now we have this fungus that is wiping them out and spreading quickly, you could have a decimated landscape. In other words, if something comes along that selectively attacks bottlebrushes you may wish you had added variety. However, that's a big "if" and Bottlebrush seem fairly solid, and you already have success, and you think it would be lovely. I think you have a wonderful idea. Good luck.

Shirley, I'm so sorry that happened - it is funny how that will sneak up on you. I purchased two salvia in early March and parked them in the back yard until I could get around to planting them. Had a couple of hot days that week... full sun...black nursery pots... yikes! Thankfully, they have revived. I would recommend placing the whole pot inside a large bucket or plastic tote tub. Fill the bucket/tote with water and give the rootball a good soak. Lots of times we don't realize, but when we water a really dry plant, the water finds a path to the bottom and runs out...always along that path... and much of the rootball remains dry. You need ALL of the roots to get some good moisture. Let the water run into the pot from the bottom so that the plant pot slowly fills up from the bottom. Then let it soak, but for no more than 10-20 minutes. Then lift it out and let all the water drain out freely. I bet you will then see a quick recovery. I've used this many times and it is a wonderful method for a really, really dried-out plant. Good luck with your new little guy and let us know what happens! EDIT: Ooops - forgot to answer your question! I would not prune until you see the recovery and which branches are truly dead and which ones get new leaves. You don't want to mistakenly cut off a branch that will contribute (photosynthesis) to the improved health of the plant. Hold off for 2-3 weeks until you get a better picture of the plant's future. Carol in Jacksonville This post was edited by love_the_yard on Sat, May 17, 14 at 11:27

Not so fast with that new name... See Udovicic and Spencer 2012 They will remain Callistemon here.

PP. padus and virginiana are very similar to one another. I would want to examine plant asked about in person before proclaiming it one instead of the other: 4 (3) Petals 2–5(–7) mm; sepals 0.7–1.4 mm (lengths equal to widths); stones ± smooth. 7 Prunus virginiana + Petals (5–)6–9 mm; sepals 1.2–2 mm (lengths greater than widths); stones rugulose. 8 Prunus padus http://www.efloras.org/florataxon.aspx?flora_id=1&taxon_id=126865