I am looking for temperate climate trees, especially alder and birch trees that are good at reclaiming hill sides. The seeds of the Cheesewood are tiny so I will send chunks of the fruit that will contain about 50 seeds or so. I haven't sprouted any yet so I don't know the best way to grow them. Check out the list of tree seeds I already have, I don't want any of those. Thanks. Chris

Those in the wild up the mountains endure colder than my yards temps so I will assume they will be fine. We get 20's and 30's as usual winter temps with rare single digits, I have a place to keep them by the basement steps if it gets too cold for a few days I can bring the pot in. I have thought about the idea about getting a plant from the wild but have heard that I can get fined because it's our state flower, I don't know how true that is.I have gotten trees that way with good results when they are dormant.So more than likely the seed leaves are the 2 tiny ones I see. How long until they getat least quarter sized? I'm prepared for slow growth but can you guess at inches per year? I also would like to know if you dug up some soil from where the natural colonies are, I've heard they need that, or is compost good enough? Homemade not commercial compost. I will have to eventually get the book about them, the authors name should be easy to remember, Dick and Jane will stick in my memory.

Thanks midwestdave. I see zero burn on shedding needles here. If Iseli was aware of the compatibility of understock to scion it could be possible they'd be writing a different article-description. DavidV - the same does hold true when it is grafted to anything "other" than Pinus contorta. Bob's emphasized it clearly. The reason he uses seedlings of CJ of course is because of the closest prodigy of seedling and scion, but also because, he has stock plants coning freely. He figured out something of rare proportions whether thru luck/skill - it doesn't matter. It's a wonderful discovery, he's made. Of course mugo - or var. pumilla (used a lot for grafting dwarf/mini conifers in Europe) - or anything of dwarf understock-growth should not be used for long-term compatibility because the scion will soon outgrow the slower understock - creating an imcompatible union that will "snap off", failing later....Speed of the understock needs to be compatible to that of the scion for you others out there that may not know this or understand how to select seedling-understock choices when grafting. var. latifolia should be used for hardiness purposes -(Pinus contorta var. latifolia)..... I'll assume. One more tip - never graft Abies concolor to Abies fraseri. You'll be looking at 100% dead plants in about 10 years. Glad I could be of help. Dax

I must say from my perspective that the annual catalog alone is as much fun as having plants delivered and boxes opened at your doorstep and the information too is, well, gold. Bob, if you see it at all possible in the future it sure would be an asset to me to know the origin in as many cases as possible for the conifers. Having this information would provide details for Records to the ACS Website and in the future could clear up any discussion with elements of uncertainty. While it's true I'm very deep in information already to be added, I will get it all done and my plan is to never stop working/revising records for the ACS Database. It's a hobby for sure. I know it could be a lot to ask cause I'm not footing the bill! Anyways, just thanks to your consideration. Dax