Dracaena draco, DRAGON TREE. Joe

I'd suggest that Coast Live Oaks/Quercus agrifolia is among the best evergreen trees for fire zones in California, as they resist fire better than almost any other native tree besides Coast Redwoods/Sequoia sempervirens, which does not do well in southern California with the smog, heat and low humidity during Santa Ana wind conditions. Another relatively fire resistant tree to consider would be Cork Oak/Quercus suber, and Marina Madrone/Arubutus 'Marina'. Palms such as Brahea armata, Brahea edulis, Butia capitata would also be relatively fire resistant, if the old dry fronds are regularly pruned off. Tree Aloes such as Aloe bainsii, or Cordyline australis, or Dracena draco/Dragon tree would also be good fire resistant trees. Ceanothus 'Ray Hartman' is not really a fire resistant species, nor does it do well in hot, southern California conditions, as it prefers more cool, humid coastal conditions. Any type of tree that is resinous is prone to spreading fires, and this would include all Cypress, Pine, Juniper species, including Italian Cypress and Hollywood Junipers. Fire safe plantings also presume keeping a certain distance between structures and large trees. I'd advise that you don't ignore the safety recommendations of your local fire district, even if it does conflict with blocking unsightly views of neighbors. I'd also strongly suggest that you consider using a swimming pool as a source of water for roof top fire sprinklers, and a generator to pump and power such a system in case of fires. Also avoid wood decks, exposed wood rafters, and utilize masonry walls and concrete or masonry paving to create a clear zone nearer the house, which can't burn.

Draceno draco trees have been transplanted successfully as can be seen at places like Lotus Land in Montecito. I would be concerned that you get sufficient roots and are doing it at the correct season of the year for best success. We don't grow them much here in northern California, so I don't really know all the specifics. I would suggest you contact a grower in southern California or an arborist who is familiar with moving the species to get better info

It was not exposed to subzero temperatures at all. What I think happened is that the water got trapped in the leaves, causing the leaves to rot at the base. The root system is vigorous and still looks very healthy, so I will try babying it to see if it can come back. At this point, there is zero top growth and just a nub of a stem left. Thanks for the reply, I will do all I can to aid in its recovery.